Wednesday, April 08, 2009

Fufú: This is how you do it

PlatanoThat image to the right is not a banana, but a plantain (in Spanish platano).

The plantain is most commonly eaten as a side dish in many Latin American cuisines, where it is simply boiled and then served as a side dish with perhaps a little olive oil and salt to add some flavor, especially if it's a green plantain, which are rather tasteless by themselves. The ripe ones are quite tasty and sweet, and are usually served sliced and fried.

A few years ago you could only find them in Latin American bodegas, but now most major supermarkets carry them.

But let's look at the green plantain. In most Latin American restaurants where it is offered, it is offered as a boiled side dish. In Cuban restaurants (and many Miami art galleries) it is also served as tostones, which essentially involves slicing up the plantain, frying it in olive oil for a while, taking it out and crushing it, and frying it again. Add salt and you're done.

But Fufú is the real king of plantain dishes and it is rarely seen in any restaurants, even Cuban ones. I think that maybe it is because Fufú possibly developed in the eastern part of Cuba (a province once called Oriente), and it may not be as well known or served in Havana, which is the only place that most tourists visit.

With its massive forests and mountains, a large African population from Spain's terrible slavery trade, coupled with its large French immigrant population which migrated to Cuba after the Haitian independence wars, and its concentration of Galician, rather than ethnic Castillians, Catalans, or Andalucian Spaniards, Oriente evolved into a very distinct region in Cuba, quite different from Havana and the other Cuban provinces, and so did its cuisine.

Oriente is where Bacardi rum was invented, and where Hatuey beer was created, and where the mojito and Daiquiri were invented... get my drift?

And in Oriente the humble plantain is eaten as a very delicious side dish called Fufú, with the accent in the last "u" like in Hai-ku.... foo fú!

Start with a couple of green plantains. Wash then and cut out the tips of the plantains but leave the skin on.

Cut the plantains into three equal pieces per plantain and bring to a boil in water and boil for a few minutes until the green skins start to peel away.

While they are boiling, in a frying pan heat a generous dose of olive oil with a seasoning dash of salt and pepper (or Goya Sazon is you really want some exotic spices).

Add chopped fresh garlic and chopped (very small pieces) onions to the hot olive oil and fry the garlic and onions; lots and lots of garlic.

While the onions and garlic fry (don't overcook), the plantains should be ready, so pull them out, throw away the green skins and put the cleaned hot plantains on a large flat plate and mash them as you would do for mashed potatoes, but not to an extreme - they should be lumpy.

Once they are broken up some, add the frying pan mixture of oil, garlic and onions and mash it all into the plantain mixture.

Salt to taste and this culinary work of art is ready to eat!

9 comments:

johnjamesanderson said...

Apart from pairing with a mojito, any recommendations on the protein or veggie compliments to this tasty dish?

Lenny said...

You bet!

Moros y Cristianos (Moors and Christians).... or white rice and black beans.

Regular white rice and Goya makes a great black bean soup for about a buck for a can.

Make sure that it is the canned soup and not just canned black beans. The black bean soup has all the spices and is ready to eat, the black bean can version just has boiled black beans and you'd need to add the spices, etc.

Giant carries the Goya black bean soup.

Anonymous said...

My mouth waters just reading this post!

Amy

The Right Reverend James W. Bailey said...

Lenny,

Food reviews! Being from New Orleans I can dig that.

I don't know about the rest of the country, but for generations New Orleanians have known about plantains.

La Macarena Pupuseria & Restaurant in Kenner, Louisiana, (a suburb of New Orleans) serves some of the best Salvadoran-style fried plantains I've ever had with black beans and sour cream.

It's a hole-in-the-wall place that can, maybe, sit 25-30 skinny tourists (12-15 regular size NOLA locals, if you get the weighty drift of my average overweight New Orleanian comment).

I'm hardly a fan of Emeril, but I have enjoyed eating his version of this dish: Pork Chops and Mashed Plantains with Chicharrones.

The recipe can be found @ http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/emeril-lagasse/pork-chops-and-mashed-plantains-with-chicharrones-recipe/index.html

A close second in terrific plantains from New Orleans for me would be Liborio Cuban Restaurant located on Magazine Street in the CBD.

For several years I worked in a building next door to Liborio.

The following was my favorite Friday lunch dish of theirs that I enjoyed for years:

CHICKEN WITH YELLOW RICE (Arroz con Pollo) Tender chicken stewed with rice in a tomato and red wine based sauce. Served with sweet Plantains and a lettuce and tomato salad.

Check out Liborio's web site @ http://www.liboriocuban.com/index.html

Lenny said...

Tks Rev,

Now I'm REALLY HUNGRY!

Anonymous said...

OMG!

Yummy!

Mike Licht said...

Lenny:

you might look for the origin of the name (if not the dish) in West Africa, where a starchy, doughy dish made of boiled and pounded yam, plantain, or cassava is called fufu or foofoo. Cassava flour in this area is often labeled "foofoo."

As I understand it, after freedom from Spain, many Cubans of African Origin homesteaded in rugged Oriente Province, then considered a wasteland.

Lenny said...

Mike,

Good point... and many Afro-Cubans are originally Yoruba and from present day Nigeria.

So add a little garlic and olive oil and onions to the original West African dish and you have Cuban fufu!

Lera said...

Actually most of the fufu that comes from West Africa and is known as such (the plantain-cassava-yam-cocoyam) is more Ghana than Nigeria. But given the role of Ghana in the slave trade and voyages to the New World it's not beyond expectation that it became a Cuban thing. Kind of like juju and what is known here as voudou.